Eating In Translation examines interesting, usually inexpensive food in and around New York, and occasionally farther afield.

New York
Joined June 2008
Poutine à la Schwartz's, topped with smoked-meat trimmings, and several hand-painted murals a short walk from Schwartz's Deli, Montreal
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Not only for seafood lovers: a particularly elegant example of an "only rain down the drain" storm-sewer grate, reminding us to protect the health of our waterways, Montreal
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Fèves au lard are the namesake baked beans included in every breakfast combo (mine: eggs, potatoes, cold roast pork, bread toasted on the stovetop) at La Binerie Mont-Royal. More: a slice of the house tourtière, or meat pie; pouding chômeur, "poor man's pudding."
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The season finale of the Indonesian bazaar at Masjid al-Hikmah highlights my roundup of New York area food events for late October: bit.ly/nyfoodevents-late-oct…
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A chocolate-cassis soft-serve twist, enjoyed on the warm last weekend of the season at Iconoglace, Montreal
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A smoked meat sandwich outside Lester's Deli, Montreal. Also shown, not far away: artwork on the supports for a roadway overpass that shelters a sprawling recreation area. The southern end is devoted to quiet relaxation; the northern end hosts a skatepark.
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A rosemary and sea salt bagel, more sweet than salty, from St-Viateur Bagel, Montreal. Also shown: a nearby bagel prohibition zone; seating carved out for passers-by.
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Lambi grillé, Haitian-style grilled conch, 3 Pierres 1 Feu, Marché Jean-Talon, Montreal
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Artwork in or near Marché Jean-Talon, Montreal: I Choose to Dance (Laurence Petit, 2026), a sidewalk mosaic; mushrooms at the stall of Eric & Pendy L'Écuyer; a portrait in produce at Épices de Cru; a shaved-ice cart (Yrvelt Charles, 2025) at 3 Pierres 1 Feu, my lunch destination.
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Maple, maple everywhere: a cake square from La Fourneé des Sucreries de l'Erable, Marché Jean-Talon, Montreal
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At dawn: a portion of the namesake Breton "butter cake" at Au Kouign-Amann, Montreal, and a mural across the way
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A pair of locally brewed Boréale beers from Variété Plus du Mont Royal, a dep convenient to my hotel after the long train ride (from which I've already returned) to Montreal
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Burmese, Egyptian, Greek, Indonesian, West African, and a rare opportunity to enjoy Panamanian bofe con hojaldre (shown) bit.ly/nyfoodevents-mid-octo…
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An exceptional nam khao with pickled pork — exceptional, even after I'd chowed down on a plate of grilled sai oua — at the Lao pop-up Heunkuoa, at Greenpoint, Brooklyn bar Troost, 1011 Manhattan Ave. The pop-up returns today, October 3, 4:30 till sold out. instagram.com/heunkuoa/
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Make room for an overstuffed weekend of New York-area food events: Chinese, Creole, Egyptian, Ethiopian, Filipino, German, Indian, Indonesian, Japanese, Korean, pan-Latin American, Native American, Nigerian, Romanian, Slavonic, Ukrainian, and more bit.ly/nyfoodevents-early-oc…
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A root beer freeze — though not nearly as colorful as the hand-drawn menu board, it hits the spot during the last gasp of summery weather — at The Screen Door, 4819 Skillman Ave., Sunnyside, Queens
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The most notable herb in this bún chả Hà Nội isn't heaped on the plate. Xương sông, wrapped around minced-pork patties, adds peppery and somewhat astringent notes when the two are chargrilled. It's hard to source in NYC; Ngon Vietnamese Kitchen, on Second Ave., grows its own.
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Cold sesame noodles from Pán Dà (previously known as Panda, with the usual iconography), Catherine St., Manhattan. Weighty and lush, they'll provide two meals for any reasonable appetite. Indulge in late-night noodles, available till 2:00 a.m., and enjoy leftovers when you wake!
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Seen in passing, on a much nicer day: Shad Crossing (2004), glass mosaics designed by Ming Fay and fabricated by Franz Meyer of Munich, in the Delancey St.-Essex St. station, Manhattan
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Cheesesteak kinfolk? A pirata de carne asada, in which a flour tortilla is wedded to yellow cheese before being heaped with strip steak (and onions, at your pleasure), Tacos Domingo, First Ave., Manhattan. Several options at the salsa bar; Whiz is not one of them.
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