Here’s a silly discourse to toil over while we wait for winter to break: When I hear “compress” the ball, it makes my face go 🫤. I’m not here to embarrass anybody, because this term has absolutely become part of the lexicon. Many greats speak of it. But from where I sit, this term is misleading. To some it means presenting reduced loft at impact through shaft lean and a negative angle of attack. But we aren’t talking about compressing the ball into the ground, because that doesn’t happen. So we’re talking about… squishing the ball? This I understand, the satisfying feeling when the ball comes off like a scoop of pudding and fizzes out there. But that feeling on the sweetspot happens because the club doesn’t twist. The ball leaves with max speed because there is no energy lost. The vibration in your hands on a mishit is what feels bad. I rarely hear those in club design talk about compression in this context, presumably because we’re conscious of twisting (this is why we Club School). The ball always compresses. In a slo-mo video, you would never be able to tell the difference in deformation between pure and 10 heel, even though the shots would feel very different. I’d leave this alone if I didn’t feel it was harmful in some way. The term has led to a massive marketing deployment of “high compression” balls targeted at lower swing speed players, and these balls perform better for almost nobody. It is easy to over-compress certain balls with driver and lose distance. Are we just trying to say that it’s easier to make good contact when you swing slightly down and forward-press your irons? Somebody will rebuttal with “well, Jack was a picker.” Are we just trying to say — hit the sweet spot?

TGE's top 12 things to consider before your first fitting: 1. Warm up. But don't fall victim to warm-up effect. The oldest trick in the book: a fitter who has you hit your current driver cold, then shows you a ball speed gain with the new one. Alternate. 2. Bring your course swing, not your range hero swing. Don’t try to hit it as far as you can. The fitter is not impressed. 3. Consider your driver miss, too. You might max out simulator distance by dialing in 2000 rpm spin. But does the hook miss become uncontrollable when it drops to 1500? 2400~2600rpm might be best. 4. If you anticipate gaining swing speed, consider a driver that has room to adjust to lower loft and more forward weight. 5. Length & lie are the critical iron specs. Then bend lofts to achieve proper gapping. 6. Distance irons can appeal to the ego. Big number ≠ low scores. Don't fall victim to simulator gamification. Prioritize iron accuracy. 7. Your swing & playing conditions will inevitably change over time. Try to leave w/ knowledge of the weights and adapter settings so you can tweak your equipment later. 8. Try to hit the whole iron set if possible. Many fittings are just the 7i. Make sure the 4i is playable, and the PW doesn't leave a big gap to your first wedge. 9. More inventory is not automatically good. That shaft wall is meant to intimidate. No-upcharge shafts are usually fine for beginners. 10. Don't go down the shaft rabbit hole before exhausting head options. Think 'more loft' before you think 'high-launch shaft.' 11. If possible, get fit by someone who already knows your game. 12. If doing a full bag fitting, consider splitting it into 2 days. Fatigue can be a major factor. Don't get to driver and have no gas left in the tank. This list can be intimidating. Not to worry. If you have questions, I am happy to support your unique case via my subscription. It may save you money & strokes in the long run.🫡

Dimple patterns are a fascinating math problem. Most use a few diameters, tessellated. Typical goals are: 1) Minimize seam 2) Minimize land between dimples 3) Target a certain dimple volume