Urban Composition (@urban_comp) profile picture

Co-host DieWorkwear! podcast. Photographer. Writer. IBEW Inside Wireman. US Director Plaza Uomo

San Francisco, CA
Joined March 2010
Photo by Urban Composition (@urban_comp)Photo by Urban Composition (@urban_comp)Photo by Urban Composition (@urban_comp)Photo by Urban Composition (@urban_comp)Photo by Urban Composition (@urban_comp)Photo by Urban Composition (@urban_comp)Photo by Urban Composition (@urban_comp)Photo by Urban Composition (@urban_comp)Photo by Urban Composition (@urban_comp)Photo by Urban Composition (@urban_comp)
This is me #ibew #uniondrip
Love your work Derek, but why always refer to @urban_comp as an electrician, when he's also director of a menswear mag, a photographer, and used to work in tech. Just feels a little disengenious, like he's just any ol' tradesman that happens to be into menswear.
25
53
3
2,421
566,542
For those interested in tailoring, here are two tailors I have used that will be visiting outside the US: Istanbul, Frankfurt, Munich, and Copenhagen:
1
86
11,397
The second is Vittorio Salino from Florence. This video shows how he adjusts the pattern for my wonky body and showcases a Florentine speciality: a side seam (hidden by the sleeve) to shape the front in lieu of a front dart. This allows for an unbroken cloth pattern
1
17
2,535
I like both, but the styles are slightly different from each other. Florentine tailors have straight, almost convex lapels (pic 1). Naples tailors are known for a spalla camicia (shirt sleeve) where the sleevehead is cut larger than the scye and then pleated to fit (pic 2).
9
1,783
This is a topic that most ppl are glossing over. High quality ethically made yarn of noble fibers is very expensive. If knitwear is then made ethically in expensive countries (Scotland, Ireland, Italy, etc) it is only reasonable to expect a high price.
Replying to @dieworkwear
Finally, a topic I can relate to! 🥹 Knitting and crocheting goods is so satisfying. But quality yarn is eye-wateringly expensive. If I wanted to knot a men's sweater in say, a wool cashmere blend, it could cost $100–300 in *yarn* alone. Assuming I had the right needles already.
2
139
7,106
Autumn temperatures are perfect for a velvet sport coat. From @SextonBespoke cut in their house style based on Tommy Nutter & Edward Sexton’s historic jackets for the Beatles & J Cocker, meant to be worn casually. Attached is a video of the 1st fitting.
can a velvet jacket ever be casual? @urban_comp experiments with a brown velvet sport coat that rides the line between elegant evening wear and sporty afternoon sport coat. cutter is nina penlington of edward sexton
5
17
1
467
19,833
I realize this isn’t for everyone, but I love this look from Kyosuke Kunimoto, who does bespoke and ready to wear suits with a groovy, rock and roll 70s aesthetic.
3
9
1
480
83,196
Most half zip sweaters have sad, wimpy collars, but if you must get one, look for one with a chunky collar like this polo from Studio Nicholson. Practically outerwear, it’s made from a chunky merino/yak blend and has a beefy collar that can be worn up or down
1
2
1
90
7,620
Josh Homme of Kyuss, Queens of the Stone Age, Them Crooked Vultures, etc, walked for Ann Demeulemeester yesterday. That is all.
54
235
192
3,726
213,530
Forgive the wrinkles, but I love how this man looks so I asked to take a picture of him. Originally from Glasgow, he now lives in San Francisco & likes to wear suits “just because.”
5
9
315
10,462
A pair of bespoke shoes in process from Michelangelo Torre. Having learned in Italy, Japan, & finally as a lastmaker at London’s Cleverley, he makes the lasts himself by hand. US trunk show soon, if interested contact him on IG _michelangelotorre_
3
3
129
11,263
Besides the history of misguided medicine, what makes this fabric special is not only the intriguing mix of pale khaki, dusty olive, and saturated crimson, with the effect that the outside resolves to a unique beige while the underside is a light brick red.
2
1
75
7,229
When @antoniolisa90 came to town, he measured me in person & sent a trial suit. We then did a fitting over video, I made some suggestions, & then shipped the suit back to Naples. The end result after modifications are almost perfect considering there were no in-person fitttings.
4
92
6,439
Personally, the storied history & the fact that iconic & knowledgeable bespoke clients wore this fabric over the decades tugged at me for almost 20 years. Part of the joys of dressing — suits or otherwise — is how your associations with clothes take on personal meaning.
2
94
5,834
Back in the days of Tumblr, pictures of Italian industrialists, magnates, and fashion consiglieri were buckshotted around the internet and hit the #menswear universe with the delicate impact of a sledgehammer. Among the particularities was this unique cloth — Solaro
1
106
9,853
For the uninitiated, Solaro was invented over 100 years ago by Louis Westenra of the London School of Hygiene & Tropical Medicine to protect soldiers from UV radiation. Afterwards it became available to the general public through Smith Woollens, now produced by @harrisons1863
1
88
7,269
This is not just any tan suit. Let me explain🧵
12
14
2
783
51,853
This is awesome. Credit ryder.birdie on IG
3
5
80
11,588