David Lane Design

It would be my pleasure to suggest some cardigans. This thread will include a range of options, including some that stretch our imagination of what a cardigan can look like. It will also include tips on how to repair moth-ridden clothes. And find cheaper alternatives. 🧵

I'm generally not a fan of remote tailoring for anything more complicated than a dress shirt. There's a reason why bespoke tailors fly around the world to meet clients. To do the best work, you typically have to see someone in person. You have to measure them, press around the body, and see how the fabric hangs during a fitting. However, as with anything, it's important to be led by facts, not dogma. About ten years ago, I noticed some people on a menswear forum getting very good results by sending their best-made suits to Sartoria Pastena in Naples, Italy, who would take measurements and create their own version. The results were shockingly good — better than what I've seen some people get from in-person fittings. At some point, someone brought Antonio from Pastena out for a US trunk show, which has since expanded into a full multi-city tour. From what I've seen, the results have only been more impressive. Pastena follows the Neapolitan tradition: soft, minimally structured jackets that look more casual than their British counterparts. The result is something that looks a bit more casual and is better suited for warmer climes. They are also one of the more affordable bespoke tailoring houses. I always warn people to be thoughtful when considering price and service. A badly made, but affordable garment is a worse purchase than something good, but slightly more expensive. However, if you like Neapolitan style, I don't think you sacrifice anything by going to Antonio. It's also worth noting that Pastena is @DavidLaneDesign's primary tailor. Consider them if you, like me, have long admired how David dresses (the overcoat in the fourth slide below is pretty amazing).

During the 2020 lockdown, I was having a conversation with a tailor over the phone who worried about whether he would go out of business. You see, there's a reason tailors incur tremendous costs to fly overseas and meet with clients. It's hard to make a proper suit for someone without seeing them in person. You need to measure them, fit them, and press around their body to see whether the armhole is high enough. That can't be reliably done through a Zoom meeting. Sartoria Pastena is one of the few companies I've seen deliver good custom tailoring online. When I was on a menswear forum, some fellow members were sending their clothes to this Neapolitan tailor to have them copied. That, of course, is slightly different from starting new, but the results were surprisingly good. Using existing clothes for base measurements, Pastena was able to produce things for people in far-flung places without having ever seen them in person. Pastena eventually became so popular on the forum that one of the members arranged to fly them out to Minneapolis. That trip soon expanded to ten cities, which stretch across the United States. One of their clients is @DavidLaneDesign, who I think always looks great. Since they're based in Naples, Pastena specializes in a style characteristic of the region. That means a soft, natural shoulder teamed with an extended front dart that runs from the chest to the hem. It also means using softer canvases and minimal shoulder padding, and eliminating the layer of domette common in English tailoring. The result is the softest possible version of tailoring, with things being just a shirt jacket, making it particularly suitable for warmer climates. Over the years, I've been impressed by Pastena's ability to handle different body types and produce very clean-looking suits and sport coats. In the third slide, you can see how one of their jackets looks in motion (the video is from the IG menswearmemoir). The good news is that they're now touring through the US, so you don't have to use their remote services. But should you ever move to a city they don't visit, they're one of the few companies I would trust with a remote order. Finally, my usual disclosure: these are not paid tweets, as I don't do paid tweets. I don't get anything from making these announcements: no free clothes, discounted clothes, money, kickbacks, store credit, or whatever else. I make these announcements simply because I love craft-based clothing and it's my pleasure to tell people about tailors, so they can continue their craft. If you have questions, please contact the tailors directly, as I'm not their representative.

here are eight men. the first three, shown in the first slide, have lean and athletic body types. the others are not so lean. of these four slides, which do you think look the best?

NYC friends: this poor dog almost got his freedom ride out of the pound when his foster ghosted him. He's now in danger of being put down. Do you have space in your home and heart to adopt? Please consider. ❤️ Also, lots of animals in this shelter who need a loving home!

Dressing well today is not about money, but about taste. I often post photos of rich men as bad examples. And the good examples? 1. @DavidLaneDesign (art teacher) 2. @urban_comp (electrician) 3. IG thefoxtooth (realtor) 4. IG therapeuticwhale and @Barima_ON (writers)

I wrote something for Mr. Porter about the "I hate menswear" essay that went viral a few weeks ago. My argument: there has never been a better time to develop personal style. Today is the best time in menswear, and tomorrow will be better still. mrporter.com/en-us/journal/f…

HOW TO REPAIR SHOES I'm doing a series on how to repair things in your wardrobe. The hope is that, given this information, people will be less likely to throw things away. This thread covers shoes. 🧵

ive gained a lot of followers in the last 8 months, and if i can use this platform for anything, it would be to encourage you to adopt a dog or cat (or any shelter animal), not as a toy, but as a new best friend who will be there for you always. check ur local shelters.

Love that my friend @DavidLaneDesign got featured in @GQ. David is my go-to source for advice on how to dress larger frames, but his general advice applies to anyone interested in classic men's style. You can find him on Instagram under the name bigfits1 gq.com/story/big-and-tall-ta…

HOW TO THINK ABOUT QUALITY IN CLOTHING 🧵 There have been a lot of discussions here recently about clothing quality. Many have involved oversimplifications, exaggerations, and sometimes misinformation. So here's a thread on how to think about quality in clothing.

Don't let body type make you think that you can't be well dressed. Or let it be an excuse for bad tailoring. In 1962, Jackie Gleason chartered a train and went on a cross-country tour. Here he is partying, dancing, and playing drums. Not a collar gap in sight.

[counterfeiter injecting rubber into a mold] counterfeiter's dad, looking over his shoulder: you don't know how lucky you have it. in my day, we had to source leather from Tanneries D'Annonay in France and then sew the leather by hand using a technique known as saddle stitchin—

increasingly convinced that a good winter wardrobe is about finding one big overcoat. you can wear it over anything—cheap jeans or tailored trousers, sweatshirts or fancy knits, suede chukkas or sneakers. doesn't matter; you will look good. my buddy david here: (IG bigfits1)

i love the way Emilie Casiez, head of womenswear at Nigel Cabourn, dresses (IG emiliecsz)

the reason why ppl are unhappy w their clothes is bc their stuff doesn't age well. shoes in the ad are made from corrected grain, which cracks over time. any knits will be made from short fibers, which pill. better to buy durable workwear clothes where you welcome the wear & tear

my buddy david just started an instagram dedicated to fits and clothing talk, if you want to follow along Instagram name is bigfits1 instagram.com/bigfits1